Saturday, February 3, 2007

Milan Shopping Trip

North of City Center
A.O.C.
The abbreviation stands for African Oriental Craft, and for the past 20 years this off-the-beaten-path, dust-filled duo of stores, located across the street from one another, has been stocking huge volumes of jewelry, home decor, and clothing from points such as Fez, Jaipur, and Jakarta. The inventory is so exhaustive you'll want to allow yourself a good two hours for browsing. And consider the prices: we found a set of six Moroccan tea glasses for a jaw-dropping $15 and thousands of glass-bead African necklaces for under $10. 23 and 34 Via Confalonieri, 39-02-68-80-21-7 and 39-02-66-82-68-9

Corso Como
It's safe to say that this is the best-known store in Milan. The owner, Carla Sozzani, is the sister of the head of Italian Vogue, and its impressive space houses a cafe, boutique, art-and-fashion bookstore, and gallery. We admired the clothes by everyone from Balenciaga to Marc Jacobs, then snapped up an affordable canvas Corso Como tote bag created by Comme des Garcon designer Rei Kawakubo. 10 Corso Como, 39-02-29-00-26-74

High Tech
Tucked away from the street in a plant-drenched courtyard, this gigantic home-goods shop offers so many items, and over such an endless, winding floor plan, that you'll burn an afternoon exploring it all. We found Indian pillows ($40) and Pinocchio-faced funnels by Alessi. 12 Piazza XXV Aprile, 39-02-62-41-101

La Vetrina di Beryl
Fashionable Milanese women often cite this footwear store (with an adjacent clothing boutique) as a favorite place to pick up sexy pumps, boots, and sandals. We spotted great choices from Costume National, Marc Jacobs, L'Autre Chose, and Miu Miu. 4 Via Statuto, 39-02-65-42-78

Madina
This Milan-based company specializes in sleekly packaged, vibrantly colorful cosmetics. While there, pick up one of the nail lacquers (which come in more than 50 colors). 17 Via Meravigli and 23 Corso Venezia, 39-02-86-69-45 and 39-02-76-02-80-26

Naj-Oleari
With a feel that's somehow more French than Italian, this casuals and beachwear shop stocks items to create the perfect weekend-on-the-Riviera wardrobe. Good picks: Syrian leather sandals in a rainbow of colors and tons of cute tees and beachwear for $75 and under. 8 Via Brera, 39-02-80-56-79-0

Penelopi 3
This superorganized shop is loaded with mod necessities for home and garden, such as hefty woven baskets and a perfect polka-dot shower curtain.1 Via Palermo, 39-02-72-00-06-52

Banner
When you want to load up on luxury goods but don't have time to visit each designer boutique, head to this shop. It offers an edited selection of the best European designers have to offer: handbags from Hogan, shoes by John Galliano, and tops by Pucci, to name a few. Think of it as one-stop shopping when you're on a tight schedule. 8a Via S. Andrea, 39-02-76-00-46-09

Fiorucci
Buzzing with energy, this famous megacenter consists of individual boutiques selling everything from lace-trimmed tap pants ($20) to limited-edition Le Coq Sportif sneakers ($90). Bonus: Fiorucci stays open later than most shops in town—until 8 PM. 2 Galleria Passarella, 39-02-76-45-21

Sermoneta
This boutique sells supersupple, high-quality leather gloves in every color of the rainbow-and at amazingly low prices. Choose a silk lining and the gloves cost around $30; a cashmere lining brings the price up a few extra dollars. We went home with a $28 pair of fingerless driving gloves. 46 Via della Spiaga, 39-02-76-31-83-03

Limoni Best
Milan is loaded with "profumerio" shops that sell brand-name cosmetics and fragrances. This chain is the best, offering such items as Lolita Lempicka eau de toilette and Perlier shower gels for far less than you'd pay in the States. Don't miss the section of inexpensive Italian mass-market grooming products, like Marvis toothpaste and Labello Rose lip balm. 4 Galleria del Corso, 39-02-78-37-85

Patrizia Pepe
Italians love this Florence-based designer for her ability to produce high-quality, trend-nailing garments-at fair prices. We found great-fitting wide-leg trousers for $120, terrific band-leather-style denim jackets for about $150, and crisp blouses starting at $65. 38 Via Manzoni, 39-02-76-01-44-77

Outlets and Discount Shops
Estate
This outlet of high-end megaboutique Corso Como offers a slew of discounted goods by designers like Costume National, Marc Jacobs, and Fendi. Saturdays only. 3 Via Tazzoli, 39-02-29-01-51-30

Fashion Factory
A long trek from the center of town, this outlet shop has a constantly changing stock (including a ton of Helmut Lang, and Miu Miu shoes for $50, on our visit) that will make up for the hassle of getting there. 36 Via Zumbini, 39-02-89-15-90-68

Fox Town Factory Stores
Take a 45-minute train ride up to Switzerland to shop at this mind-blowing outlet mall complete with Gucci, Prada, Missoni, Helmut Lang, Hanro, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana. The prices are right, too: All the shoes in the Gucci outlet, for example, were $35 when we visited. 18 Via A. Maspoli, Mendrisio, Switzerland, 41-848-828-888

Il Salvagente
Tons of tightly packed racks offer drastically discounted clothing from big-name European designers like Chloe (we spied a terry-cloth top for $50) and Balenciaga (a silk chiffon gypsy blouse was temptingly priced at $200). The whole Il Salvangente shopping experience feels like a sample sale-but without all of those maddening crowds. 16 Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 39-02-76-11-03-28

Porta Ticinese and Surroundings
B-fly
Levi's operates a handful of experimental denim shops in the world's fashion capitals, and this is Milan's outpost. Here you'll find deconstructed and often asymmetrically cut jeans, skirts, and jackets. Prices hover upwards of $100, but keep in mind: Many of the pieces are one-off creations. 46 Corso di Porta Ticinese, 39-02-89-42-31-78

Cavalli and Nastri
Favored by local stylists, this vintage shop-it even has a wood-burning stove-is the perfect place to pick up a Pucci slip or Missoni sweater. Currently '70s-era Yves Saint Laurent is heavily represented (a gorgeous Russian peasant-style top cost $390). Another Cavalli and Nastri location is on Via Brera. 9 Via de Amicis and 2 Via Brera, 89-40-94-52 and 39-02-72-00-04-49

Frip
This urban clothing shop stocks hip vinyl by fringe Euro bands and garments with clean lines by Swedish and Brit designers. Our favorite picks included flutter-sleeve tops screened with lacy embellishments by For Design Sake ($100) and pointy-toe flats ($130) by Xenos. 16 Corso di Porta Ticinese, 39-02-83-21-36-0

Katabaia
Beachy accessories from India and Southeast Asia are in abundance here at prices far cheaper than you'll find in the States. We couldn't resist the crocheted cotton bikinis in a rainbow of colors ($15 each), beaded rubber flip-flops ($10), and chunky carved ebony-wood rings ($5 to $10). Even better, finds like these will take up zero room in your suitcase going home. 6 Corso di Porta Ticinese, 39-02-89-42-27-84

Liberia della Moda
When designers need inspiration, they head to this fashion-focused bookshop to poke through the array of volumes covering everything from Moroccan textiles to Donatella Versace. The selection of 'zines is equally stellar. Bonus: Almost all the books are in English. 4/12 Via Gian Giacomo Mora, 39-02-89-42-39-88

Napoleone
Tucked away on a tiny back street, this vintage destination features prices rivaling those at thrift stores (nothing tops $15). Pair that with a great selection of Indian-printed blouses, groovy '60s wrap skirts and you'll be eternally thankful you visited. 5 Via degli Arcimboldi, 39-02-87-52-23

Naviglio Grande and Viale Papiniano markets
Naviglio Grande: along the banks of the Naviglio Grande from Viale Gorizia to Via Valenza; Papiniano: runs the length of Viale Papiniano. The Naviglio Grande is a much anticipated flea market that materializes on the last Sunday of the month. Expect a mad mix of antiques, vintage clothing, and the occasional oddball piece (like, say, a paint-by-number version of The Last Supper). As for the Viale Papiniano, it's a weekly Saturday-and Tuesday-morning fixture. With minimal effort, we found a Venetian-lace shawl for $25.

Spazio 29
Fairly priced vintage clothing, like funky striped dolman-sleeve tees ($25) and wildly printed Indian tunics, keeps local hipsters coming back. The occasional showpiece item can be expensive ('70s top-and-skirt set), but worth it. 56 corson di Porta Ticinese, 39-02-83-61-76-2

Rivendita
Everything in this shop is thoroughly modern, yet harkens to a more glamorous era. When we stopped in, we saw a sock hop-worthy salmon-colored cardigan and gorgeous Old Hollywood-looking cream leather sandals by LeFlesh. 19 Via Arena, 39-02-83-24-14-36

Tim Camino
This homespun boutique has BROOKLYN scrawled on one wall, but there's nothing urban about its eponymous line. All the pieces we found, like the denim knickers ($49) and camisoles made with doilies ($150) had a distinct "Little House on the Prairie" vibe. 3 Via de Amicis, 39-02-83-60-12-4

The best of Italy
United Colors of Benetton and Playlife
The former has tons of shops all over the city-and a larger selection than in the States. The latter is a Benetton venture dedicated to fitness apparel; most items are less than $50. Benetton: 8 Corso Vercelli plus other locations; Playlife: 3 Corso Buenos Aires, 39-02-43-35-11-21 and 39-02-20-24-06-84

Dolce & Gabbana and D&G
Pick up all your favorites here, like kitten-heel pumps and supersexy jeans. Dolce & Gabbana: 2 Via della Spiga; D & G: 7 Corso Venezia, 39-02-76-00-11-55 and 39-02-76-00-40-91

Fendi
Admire the amazing shearling coats, but buy a classic logo tote for $350 (versus the $600 to $700 they cost in the States). 16 Via S. Andrea, 39-02-76-02-16-17

Geox
Italians love these comfortable leather sneakers and shoes, which have the appearance of expensive designer footwear but cost, on average, about $75. 26 Via Monte Napoleone, 39-02-76-00-93-72

Gucci
Tourists flock to this sleek shop: feel free to follow! 5 & 7 Via Monte Napoleone 39-02-77-12-71

Prada and Miu Miu
A plentitude of Prada and Miu Miu boutiques dot central Milan. Prada: 63 & 65 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II plus other locations; Miu Miu: 3 Corso Venezia, 39-02-87-69-79 and 39-02-76-00-17-99

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