Saturday, February 3, 2007

Rome & Florence Shopping Trip

Rome
Abiti Usati
Root around this musty and cavelike vintage shop for impressively broken-in leather jackets, slouchy boots, and screen-print tees. Prices average $80 for a jacket, $15 for a shirt. (We had big eyes for a stunning patchwork snakeskin clutch priced at only $36.) 35 Via del Governo Vecchio, 011-39-06-68307105

Degli Effetti
Sleek, spare, and full of carefully arranged designer garments, this near-the-Pantheon shop is a worthwhile destination for Jimmy Choo shoes, Stella McCartney jeans, and-when the occasion arises-excellent sales. 93 Piazza Capranica, 011-39-06-6791650

Discount
dell'Alta Moda
Although it's a tourist favorite, this outlet boutique has a reputation for its consistently designer-heavy stock-Fendi, Versace, and more. Worth a dig. 14/16A Via Gesù e Maria 011-39-06-3613796; 87/88 Via Agostino Depretis, 011-39-06-47825672

Dress Agency
This is the go-to spot in Rome for consigned designer clothing. (We found a Prada sundress for only $60.) 1B Via del Vantaggio, 011-39-06-3210898; 5A Via Plana, 011-39-06-8080522

FFI Fatta Fabbrica Italiana
This centrally located shop showcases its thoroughly affordable line of bright nylon, leather-handle totes. Pick up a few in different sizes, as prices start at only $10. 53 Via Vittoria, 011-39-06-69190882

Gente
Sprinkled throughout the city, the Gente boutique chain has cultivated a loyal following for its inspired mix of European labels big (Marni, Missoni) and small (DSquared, Jamin Puech). Our two favorite locations are the ones on Via Frattina (near the Piazza di Spagna) and Via Cola di Rienzo (in the same hood as the Vatican). 69 Via Frattina, 011-39-06-6789132; 277

Via Cola di Rienzo
Jam
Constantly packed, this bustling, energetic store fills multiple stories and a block-wide space with funky, inexpensive jewelry (from $3 to $30), Fake London jeans, and so much more. Highly recommended—we went in for a peek and ended up staying for more than an hour. 1/2 Galleria Alberto Sordi, 011-39-06-6784209

Kouki
With the dusty feel of a wine cellar, this tiny shop is crammed with colorful drinking vessels from Syria and Morocco (none cost more than $10), and a profusion of inexpensive chandeliers that look like grape clusters. 64 Via di Monte Giordano, 011-39-06-6896704

Kristina Ti
Torinese designer Kristina Ti is known for her breezy Mediterranean aesthetic (Sardinia is home to her first shop). This means you can expect loads of silky camis, tissue-thin cashmere cardigans, and floaty chiffon skirts. 40C/41 Via Mario de Fiori, 011-39-06-69200170, kristati.it

Laura Urbinati
We came across this shop on its opening day and were thrilled—we're big fans of this lounge—and beachwear designer, known for her delicate cotton prints and sexy bikinis. 50A Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 011-39-06-68136478

Leam Limited
The longstanding designer boutique Leam just opened this cutting-edge sibling that sells handpicked pieces from all the Italian greats—Prada, Marni, Missoni—along with upstart labels, in a sleek, pared-down environment. 30 Via Appia Nuova, 011-39-06-77207204

Mado
Stop here if you're a fan of gorgeous antique kimonos (prices start at $75) and vintage costume jewelry (from $25). 89A Via del Governo Vecchio, 011-39-06-6875028

Mondello Ottica
Locals have flocked to this tucked-away eyewear shop for the past quarter-century to pick up La Dolce Vita-worthy sunglasses. Look for lines like Christian Roth and Cutler and Gross. 97/98 Via del Pellegrino, 011-39-06-6861955, mondelloottica.it

Nia & Co.
Conveniently located across the street from each other, these sister boutiques are local favorites. We prefer the shop at numbers 30/31 for its affordably trendy offerings: Un Jour Un Sac totes, Cath Kidston messenger bags, and Vanessa Bruno tanks. 30/31 and 48 Via Vittoria, 011-39-06-3227421

Nuyorica
After wandering through the Campo de Fiori, take a minute to find this unpretentious, tucked-away boutique—especially if you're in the market for the latest Balenciaga bag or Chloe sandals. 36 Piazza Pollarola, 011-39-06-68891243

Omero e Cecilia
A slew of vintage and recycled-clothing shops line Via del Governo Vecchio, and with its ample selection of leather bags (in the $30 to $50 range), shoes, and jackets—along with an array of cool scarves—this one gets our vote for the best of the lot. 110 Via del Governo Vecchio, 011-39-06-6833506

Piccole Gioie
Trays of inexpensive Italian jewelry (18K gold and turquoise drop earrings, coral charm necklaces) are arranged in the windows of this shop according to price, starting at about $13. 36 Via dei Giubbonari, 011-39-06-68804896, lepiccolegioie.com

Retro
Three Calabrian sisters teamed up to open this sleek three-year-old shop, which sells all things midcentury modern for the home: furniture, tabletop items, and an impressive selection of Murano glass vases. 21 Piazza del Fico, 011-39-06-68192746, retrodesign.it

SBU
Jeans from this under-the-radar Italian line aren't cheap (expect to pay about $180), but they have a great fit and anything-but-cheesy worn-in look. Snap them up here, as they are frustratingly hard to find in the States. 68/69 Via Santo Pantaleo, 011-39-06-68802547

Sermoneta
Up for grabs in everything from shamrock green suede to bright orange lambskin, Sermoneta gloves are priced as alluringly as the colors they're available in: about $28 for a cashmere-lined pair. Stock up now for winter. 61 Piazza di Spagna, 011-39-06-6791960

Tad Concept Store
With its mix of hip designer clothing, esoteric art books, hard-to-find fragrances- and even an on-site florist and salon-this trendsetting shop is our favorite in all of Rome. Come and be tempted by L'Autre Chose shoes and Carthusia perfume, then enjoy gourmet fare in the attached cafe. 155A Via del Babuino, 011-39-06-32695131

Tad Outlett
This shop receives the sale merchandise from the Tad Concept Store-and since it's only a short walk away, do pencil in a visit. There's lots of home decor, like sequined pillows (about $50), but we headed straight to the back room, which is flush with deeply discounted clothing by big names like Balenciaga. 5 Via di San Giacomo, 011-39-06-36001679

Zoy
Funky, affordable home accessories, like mod screen-print pillows (from $15) and unique costume jewelry, make this a good destination for unusual gifts. 10 Via della Chiesa Nuova, 011-39-06-68135704

Antique finds
Borghetto Flaminio
When: Every Sunday Conveniently located near the Piazza del Popolo, this easy-to-browse market has a great array of vintage costume jewelry and clothing at reasonable prices (our find: twenties rhinestone chandelier earrings for $40). 32 Piazza della Marina, Rome, 011-39-06-5880517

Il Mercato di Piazza Verdi
When: Fourth Sunday of the month The Piazza Verdi market is a good place to snap up antique items for the home, like ceramics, glassware, and assorted quality bric-a-brac. Piazza Verdi, Rome, 011-39-06-8552773

Piazza Santo Spirito
When: Second Sunday of the month This market has enough vendors to satisfy your flea-marketing needs, but not too many to overwhelm you. If your goal is to get a great deal on an antique trinket while in Florence, this is the place to do it. Piazza Santo Spirito, Florence, 011-39-055-23320

Italian greats
D&G
Signature style: Racy, figure-conscious pieces with Sicilian spirit. Rome: 93/95 Piazza di Spagna, 011-39-06-69380870

Diesel
Signature style: Edgy streetwear and denim. Rome: 186 Via del Corso, 011-39-06-6783933; Florence: 13 Via dei Lamberti, 011-39-055-2399963

Gucci
Signature style: Razor-sharp clothing and iconic logo bags. Rome: 8 Via Condotti, 011-39-06-6790405; Florence: 73 Via dei Tornabuoni (clothing), 011-39-055-264011; 38 Via Roma (accessories), 011-055-759221

Miss Sixty
Signature style: Eighties inspired, with a sexy bent. Rome: 510 Via del Corso, 011-39-06-3219374; Florence: 20R Via Roma, 011-39-055-2399549

Missoni
Signature style: Bright, bohemian zigzag knits. Rome: 78 Piazza di Spagna, 011-39-06-6792555

Miu Miu
Signature style: Updated '50s-influenced pieces with an appealingly prim touch. Florence: 8 Via Roma, 011-39-055-2608931

Patrizia Pepe
Signature style: Chic, fashion-forward garments, like sequin-detail chiffon tops ($110) and slim stovepipe trousers. Rome: 1 Via Frattina, 011-39-06-6784698; Florence: 12R Piazza San Giovanni, 011-39-055-2645056

Prada
Signature style: Unexpected and always refined, with a definite vintage feel. Rome: 92/95 Via Condotti, 011-39-06-6790897; Florence: 53R Via dei Tornabuoni, 011-39-055-267471

Pucci
Signature style: Mod, color-drenched swirly prints. The company is based out of Florence, so don't miss its flagship shop. 20/22R Via dei Tornabuoni, 011-39-055-2658082

Florence
A Piedi Nudi Nel Parco
It stands for "barefoot in the park," and this shop has all the clothing you'll need for both downtime and dressing up: sleek satin Members Only-inspired Katherine Hamnett jackets, Fornarina shoes, JPG print tops, and even bright Moroccan leather poufs ($125). 46R Borgo degli Albizi, 011-39-055-2340768

Calvani
True, there's no shortage of shoes in Florence, but this shop is the place to go when you want to find unusual styles with quirky details from upstart European names, like TN-29, Ash, and Trans-Parents. Also great: the selection of Camper sandals and Gola sneaks. 7R Via degli Speziali, 011-39-055-2654043

Elio Ferraro Gallery/Store
Although it sounds like it sells art, this boutique is actually dedicated to purveying a choice selection of vintage designer clothing. We spied a handful of Gucci purses ($200 to $400) and a stunning Missoni dress ($495). 47R Via del Parione, 011-39-055-290425

Francesco da Firenze
For three generations, a local family has been handcrafting leather Greek-style sandals from this tiny storefront. For between $50 and $70, a custom-made pair can be had within 24 hours. (Go with style number 067, a strappy lace-up-the-calf thong).62R Via Santo Spirito, 011-39-055-212428

Gerard Loft
An offshoot of the more expensive Gerard designer boutique, this more youthful sibling sells lines like Pringle and Levi's Red, along with offbeat sneakers in a decidedly laid-back, loftlike setting. 34/36 Via dè Pecori, 011-39-055-282491

Il Bisonte
Known for high-quality bags with classic Italian styling-like natural tanned leather and minimal details-Il Bisonte pieces are so classic, they're trendproof. We want one of its summer totes (from $95 to $225). 31R Via del Parione, 011-39-055-215722

Il Torchio
Tucked away on the less touristy side of Florence-south of the Arno River, in the Oltrarno neighborhood-this paper shop is a true slice of old-world Italy. All of its journals and diaries are covered in beautiful hand-marbled paper and created on-site in the tiny workshop/store. (Prices average $8 to 24 for a journal.) 17 Via dei Bardi, 011-39-055-2342862

Luisa Via Roma
Widely recognized as one of the most cutting-edge boutiques in town, Luisa Via Roma offers a roster of coveted items-from beaded Chloé handbags to Burberry trenches, along with a killer selection of shoes. But before you start shopping, sidle up to the in-store espresso bar for a caffeine jolt. 24 Via Roma, 011-39-055-217826

Madova
High-quality leather gloves in a myriad of hues—and for between $25 and $65—make this a popular stop for Florentines and tourists alike. There are even lining options: from silk to cashmere to shearling. 1R Via Guicciardini, 011-39-055-2396526, madova.com

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Easily one of the most impressive boutiques we've ever visited, this legendary pharmacy was started by monks in 1612. Not much has changed-you still shop for its gorgeously packaged lotions, perfumes, and soaps in the ornate, virtually untouched monastery. (The only modern accent: The checkout area is where the altar once stood.) 16 Via della Scala, 011-39-055-216276

Olio & Convivium
Swing by this epicurean hot spot to pick up gifts for your foodie friends. The shop offers a well-edited array of Tuscan wines, jars of olives, buttery cookies—even cases filled with elegant bottles of aged balsamic vinegar. If you want to stop and snack, there's a great on-site cafe. 4 Via Santo Spirito, 011-39-055-2658198

Pineider
Similar to super-upscale Brit stationers Smythson, Pineider is known for its incredibly elegant yet simple correspondence papers. There used to be a store in the States, but no longer-so stock up on its bright "Capri" notecard sets ($50) and leather-bound journals (from $60). 13R Piazza della Signoria, 011-39-055-284655

Ponte Vecchio Jewelers
The Ponte Vecchio bridge has been home to fine jewelry shops since the Medici family ruled Florence in the Middle Ages. (A bit of history: Butchers were the previous tenants on the Ponte Vecchio, but the Medicis didn't like the smell-they had to cross the bridge to get to their palace-so they decreed that jewelers take their place.) You can still find loads of classic pieces here, like rosette earrings (visit U. Gherardi), coral horn-pendant necklaces (at Fantoni), and cameos (go to Piero Fallaci). Fantoni: 32R Ponte Vecchio, 011-39-055-282031; Piero Fallaci: 43R Ponte Vecchio, 011-39-055-294465; U. Gherardi: 5R Ponte Vecchio, 011-39-055-211809

Profumeria Limoni
We're fans of inexpensive Italian beauty products, like thick Neutro Roberts shower gels ($3), lemony-scented Manila handcream ($1.75), and moisturizing, lightly fruity Labello lip balms ($2 to $3). This drugstore chain sells these and much more. 31R Via Panzani, 011-39-055-2658929

Raspini
With locations scattered throughout Florence, you'll no doubt come across this designer boutique chain. It's the place to go when you want to pick up pieces by biggie Italian names like Miu Miu, Capucci, and Fendi, but don't have time to dig. 25R Via Roma, 011-39-055-213077, plus two other locations (Via Martelli, Via Por S Maria)

Space
With a hyperminimal 2001: A Space Odyssey feel, this boutique is home to sedately chic lines like Costume National and Dries Van Noten. Our current pick of the shop: gauzy, sequin-trim blouses by Italian talent Elisabetta Vezzani. 17R Via dè Tornabuoni, 011-39-055-216943

Spezieria Erboristeria Palazzo Vecchio
This Florentine pharmacy is revered for its eponymous line of herb-based beauty products—especially fragrances, like its Acqua di Firenze, a clean, cool-blue-colored scent ($14). 9R Via Vacchereccia, 011-39-055-2396055

Vestri
The heady smell of rich artisanal chocolate literally beckons you into this tiny storefront. Stop and sample a rich chili-flecked or coffee truffle, then snap up a package of cocoa-infused pasta ($6). 11R Borgo degli Albizi, 011-39-055-2340374

designer deals
For stupendous bargains, visit the many big-name outlets outside Florence.
Fendi Huge, airy, and stocked to the rafters with shoes (which average between $100 and $180 per pair) and more than a few logo bags. 66 Via Pian dell'Isola in Rignano sull' Arno, 011-39-055-5834981 Dolce & Gabbana Find an impressive selection of accessories and clothing at up to 50 percent off in this clean, organized outlet. 49 S. Maria Maddalena in Incisa in Val d'Arno, 011-39-055-8331300 Modulo Come to this Celine outlet-it's in the same complex as Fendi-to nab a leather Boogie bag for about $580 (versus upward of $900 retail). A Loewe outlet is also on the premises. 66 Via Pian dell'Isola in Rignano sull'Arno, 011- 39-055-8347155 Prada Space Outlet This mammoth Prada/Miu Miu clearinghouse was so good, it literally moved us to tears: imagine shelves of shoes for $25, $65, and $90, along with tons of bags from $100 to $400. 69 Località Levanella in Montevarchi, 011-39-055-9196528 The Mall Sleek, refined, and loaded with names like Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi, Hogan, and Bottega Veneta-all at wholesale or below. Truly, this is one of the best outlets we've ever visited. 8 Via Europa in Leccio Reggello, 011-39-055-8657775

Originally published in Lucky magazine's May 2004 issue. Information may have changed since publication.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Kori!

I just got back from a month trip in Europe. When I was on the train from Rome to Florence, I saw a woman wearing a unique design pair of shoes which really caught my attention and I though they were Converse but they were not.

Then, when I was in Florence I found the shop it was Calvani! I tried to surf online but to no avail and I came across your blog.

Now I have the information on that shoes. Thank you very much!

The problem is the company does not have its own website for online purchasing, am I right?

Thanks again!

Sharazad