Paris Shopping Trip
Paris
Agnes B.
This is stop number one for Americans who want to achieve that effortless Parisian-girl look. Specialties include snap-front cardigans, crisp cotton trousers, and that ultimate French item—the striped sailor jersey. Best location: 6 rue du Jour (1st arr.), 33-1-45-08-56-56, agnesb.com
Antik Batik
No one else nails the rich-hippie look as successfully as Antik Batik. Beaded silk caftans and lavishly embroidered kurtas-just the thing for lounging poolside in a Jaipur palace-are the line's signatures. Best location: 18 rue de Turenne (4th arr.), 33-1-44-78-02-00
A.P.C.
Understated yet fashion-forward, pieces by A.P.C. have enduring credibility among Parisian hipsters. Expect a bounty of utilitarian styles this season; standouts include epaulet-trim shirtdresses and denim tunics reminiscent of artist's smocks. Best location: 3 rue de Fleurus (6th arr.), 33-1-42-22-12-77, apc.fr
Comptoir des Cotonniers
All of the effortlessly cool (and mostly cotton) garments at this laid-back-chic chain have a weekend-in-the-south-of-France sensibility. Simple white fixtures provide the perfect backdrop for softly toned trenches, ruffle-detail camis, and slouchy shorts. Best location: 33 rue des Francs Bourgeois (4th arr.), 33-1-42-76-95-33, comptoirdescotonniers.com
Deyrolle
Envision an old-fashioned botanist's library, complete with exotic taxidermic animals (yes, for sale) and creaky floorboards, and you've got Deyrolle, a 174-year-old French institution. So what else is there to buy? Tons of vintage botanical posters ($32 to $150), along with butterflies, grasshoppers, and beetles with which to create your own shadow boxes. 46 rue du Bac (7th arr.), 33-1-42-22-30-07, deyrolle.fr
Etam
France's answer to H&M, this hyper-affordable womenswear chain has a knack for rolling out accessible on-trend clothing. Its current offerings—'50s-inspired sundresses, playful canvas totes, primary-bright trenches, and sequin-flecked circle skirts—are especially spot-on. Best location: 67/73 rue du Rivoli (1st arr.), 33-1-44-76-73-73, etam.com
Et Vous
A recent reinvigoration of this line has really registered on our radar. We'd now describe Et Vous as a more upscale Zara: quietly fashionable, undeniably chic, and well-priced. Best location: 42 rue Etienne Marcel (2nd arr.), 33-1-55-80-76-10
France Ma Douce
Browse for espadrilles from Marseilles, hefty Provence soaps, and striped kitchen linens from the Aquitaine province at this quaint purveyor of French regional goods. 27 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th arr.), 33-1-44-59-38-03. francemadouce.com
Isabel Marant
Revered for her flattering, slightly drapey cuts and globally influenced designs, Marant has an intensely loyal following. A typical look might include a slouchy tank with rolled-up capris and tapestry-print boots. Buy here, as Marant's pieces are nearly impossible to find in the States. Best location: 16 rue de Charonne (11th arr.), 33-1-49-29-71-55
K. Jacques
Lucky editors live in these St. Tropez-made leather sandals all summer long. Some favorites: the "Bikini," a lace-up-the-leg gladiator style, and the "Diogene," a classic thong fringed with burnished metal discs. 16 rue Pavee (4th arr.), 33-1-40-27-03-57
Les Prairies de Paris
Romance is alive and well among the racks at this charming indie label: Imagine pretty, flowy dresses, peasant blouses waiting to slip off one shoulder, and swingy wide-yoked skirts. 6 rue du Pre aux Clercs (7th arr.), 33-1-40-20-44-12
Paul & Joe
The way Sophie Albou subtly melds feminine and masculine influences in her designs is truly impressive. And the best part: Her pieces-which this season include espadrille-heel boots and wallpaper-print floral blouses-are wildly wearable. Best location: 62 rue des Sts. Peres (7th arr.), 33-1-42-22-47-01, paulandjoe.com
Resonances
Head to this French home-goods chain, which we'd describe as half Restoration Hardware, half gourmet grocer, for last-minute gifts: retro Orangina tumblers, delectable vanilla gaufrettes, and plume-heavy feather dusters. Best location: 3 Blvd. Malesherbes (8th arr.), 33-1-44-51-63-70, resonances.fr
Sabbia Rosa
Stylish women (and those attempting to seduce them) come to this discreet lingerie boutique for its signature vividly hued silk camisoles and slips. Inexpensive they aren't—camis average $275—but, like a Chanel bag or Hermes watch, these gorgeous pieces are impeccably made and impossibly French. 73 rue des Sts. Peres (6th arr.), 33-1-45-48-88-37
Sandro
We've loved this sweet, well-tailored line for years, and its first boutique doesn't disappoint. It's full of weekend-cool stuff that can also do office duty, like flirty Empire-waist tops and layered cotton skirts. 125 blvd. Sebastopol (2nd arr.), 33-1-40-39-90-21
Vanessa Bruno
Of all the young Parisian designers, Vanessa Bruno is among the top: She has a knack for giving women exactly what they want-unfussy feminine pieces with a devil-may-care edge. To see her entire line in one place is a true thrill; in the States, you're lucky to find just a few pieces here and there. Best location: 12 rue de Castiglione (1st arr.), 33-1-42-61-44-60
Zadig & Voltaire
Style-conscious French girls swear by Zadig & Voltaire, and we urge you to educate yourself on the wonders of its sexy, just-a-tad-slouchy trousers, slinky slipdresses, and luxuriously thin cotton sweaters. Best location: 18-20 rue François Premier (8th arr.), 33-1-40-70-97-89, zadig-et-voltaire.com
Editor's pick
French Touche
1 rue Jacquemont (17th arr.), 33-1-42-63-31-36, frenchtouche.com"Dozens of little know French artists and designers make trinkets, paper goods, baby clothing, and accessories for this adorable out-of-the-way store. And its website ships to the States!"—Joane Amay, Credits Editor
Where to find the biggest of the big-name designers:
Balenciaga 10 ave. George V (8th arr.), 33-1-47-20-21-11 Chanel Best location: 31 rue Cambon (1st arr.),33-1-42-86-28-00, chanel.com Chloe 54 rue du Faubourg St. Honore (8th arr.),33-1-44-94-33-00, chloe.com DiorBest location: 30 ave. Montaigne (8th arr.),33-1-40-73-54-44 Goyard 233 rue St. Honore (1st arr.), 33-1-42-60-57-04, goyard.fr Hermes Best location: 24 rue du Faubourg St. Honoré (8th arr.),33-1-40-17-47-17, hermes.com Louis Vuitton Best location: 101 ave. des Champs-Elysees (8th arr.),33-1-53-57-24-00, louisvuitton.com Yves Saint Laurent Best location: 38 rue du Faubourg St. Honore (8th arr.),33-1-42-65-74-59, ysl.com
Editor's pick
La Duree
75 ave. des Champs-Elysees (8th arr.), 33-1-40-75-08-75, laduree.fr "The Macaroons from this fancy oldfashioned pastry shop are incredible-it's worth the wait in the usually crazy-long line to get them. They're beautifully packaged, too." —Hope Greenberg, Fashion Director
Multi-label Shops
AB33
Proprietor Agathe Buchotte grew up in the south of France, and her breezy shop seems like it could be plucked straight of out Marseilles. Sweet printed Kristina Ti bikinis and sherbet-colored tees from Vanessa Bruno's charming secondary line Athe mingle with other French-chic garments in a pleasingly spare space. 33 rue Charlot (3rd arr.), 33-1-42-71-02-82
Abou d'Abi Bazar
This Marais institution stocks primarily pieces from Parisian designers who combine bohemian with feminine: Isabel Marant (specifically her lower-priced Etoile line), Tara Jarmon, and Stella Forest. If you have time for only one clothing boutique, this is a good bet. Best location: 10 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd arr.), 33-1-42-77-96-98, aboudabibazar.com
Allison
Though new locations of this boutique chainlet keep popping up, it's still largely unknown, even to locals. All the better for you: Consider it the insider's resource for Antik Batik, Maje, and one of our favorite new discoveries, April 77 (we still regret not buying one of its Sgt. Pepper-ish military-style denim jackets). Best location: 38 rue des Abbesses (18th arr.), 33-1-42-62-37-28
Astier de Villatte
These French ceramics are instantly recognizable: antique-influenced terra-cotta vessels washed in an artistically uneven milky glaze. Find the latest designs at its charming, rustic storefront, along with vintagey bistro glassware, rosary-like necklaces, and other knickknacks by a myriad of small designers. 173 rue St. Honore (1st arr.), 33-1-42-60-74-13, astierdevillatte.com
Beryl
Antique pendants, brooches, and cocktail rings arranged in velvet-lined window trays are the big draw at this tiny jewelry shop. Go in to admire their uniqueness (and flea-market-reasonable prices). 80 rue de Provence (9th arr.), 33-1-40-16-99-60
Colette
The term "lifestyle store"-a boutique that brings together clothing, makeup, CDs, books, and food under one roof-entered the lexicon thanks to Colette. The first of its genre when it opened in the mid-'90s, it's still as pacesetting as ever, stocking one-offs and exclusives from underground talent, as well as clothing by well-known names including Lanvin and Lucien Pellat-Finet. 213 rue St. Honoré (1st arr.), 33-1-55-35-33-90, colette.fr
CSAO
Handmade West African imports-bright woven-plastic floor mats, kente-cloth clothing, and bedding dyed earthy hues of ochre and oxblood-are the specialty at this sprawling boutique/gallery. It's hard to miss: The mini-empire (which now includes a restaurant) has taken over an entire block in the Marais. 9 rue Elzévir (3rd arr.), 33-1-44-54-55-88, csao.fr
Des Petits Hauts
As its name ("Some Little Tops") suggests, this store sells mostly tops-specifically, a winning assortment of cheerily detailed tanks, tees, and sweaters. Best location: 5 rue Keller (11th arr.), 33-1-43-38-14-39
Home Autour du Monde
Two floors of bright, modern, entirely captivating home goods greet the shoppers that always seem to mob this cheerful retailer. Enter the fray and take in neon Buddha statues, embroidered floor pillows, and brightly painted candelabras. 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd arr.), 33-1-42-77-06-08
Iris
Italian shoe manufacturer Iris opened this minimalist Left Bank shop to sell footwear by all the designers it works with, including Chloé, Veronique Branquinho, and Sonia Rykiel. 28 rue de Grenelle (7th arr.), 33-1-42-22-89-81
Kazana
Multiple locations of this affordable accessories store, which specializes in imports from Morocco and India, dot the city. Expect bib-size wood-bead necklaces, embroidered silk totes, and etched metal cuffs, all priced under $60. Best location: 52 rue St. Louis en l'Îsle (4th arr.), 33-1-46-34-83-95
Madame André
With her adorable Kewpie-doll looks and esoteric schoolgirl style, former fashion editor Chloé Para is the perfect face for her unique, fashionable boutique. The beyond-tiny shop is meticulously stocked with left-of-center essentials: Japanese silk-screened totes, socks with knit-in designs of shoelaces, skinny striped scarves. 34 rue du Mont Thabor (1st arr.), 33-6-19-97-06-30
Olga
From its eclectic Euro labels (including Eley Kishimoto and Gaspard Yurkievich), to the disco-era wallpaper, to the secret back room brimming with vintage finds, Olga has undeniable charm-and owner Olivier Gampel's friendly service, too. 45 rue de Turenne (3rd arr.), 33-1-42-72-44-92
Quidam de Revel
A vintage store that's on the Japanese tourist circuit is likely to be good, and such is the case with Quidam de Revel. It's stocked with some of the city's best treasures from the past; we turned up gorgeous candy-colored suede Dior sandals and one insanely cool feathered belt that was so wide, it bordered on being a miniskirt. 24-26 rue du Poitou (3rd arr.), 33-1-42-71-37-07, quidam-de-revel.com
Spree
Art books, vintage Prouvé-influenced furniture, and modern-day wearables come together at this insider's destination, located in Paris' scenic Montmartre neighborhood. Shop for graceful Porselli ballet slippers and Nathalie Costes resin-bead necklaces, then sightsee at the nearby Sacre Coeur and Dalí Museum.16 rue la Vieuville (18th arr.), 33-1-42-23-41-40
Editor's pick
Mariage Frères
Best location: 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th arr.), 33-1-42-72-28-11, mariagefreres.com "This teashop and salon feels straight out of another country, but not in a hoity-toity way. It has a cute, low-key café, and its Birthday Tea blend-which comes in a pretty canister-makes a great gift."—Jean Godfrey-June, Beauty Director
where to stretch your euros
Surplus A.P.C. (45 rue Madame [6th arr.], 33-1-45-48-43-71, apc.fr) is the clearinghouse for A.P.C. merch, and it's the most modern-chic, un-outlet-y outlet we've ever seen.Le Mouton à Cinq Pattes (best location: 138 blvd. St. Germain [6th arr.], 33-1-43-26-49-25), a.k.a. "the five-legged lamb," is a top-notch, not wildly expensive destination for secondhand designer labels-even though some of the actual labels are snipped out of the garments. Finally, make the trip to Cacharel Stock (114 rue d'Alésia [14th arr.], 33-1-45-42-53-04) and SR Store, the outlet for Sonia Rykiel (64 and 112 rue d'Alésia [14th arr.], 33-1-43-95-06-13); both are extraordinary, with a healthy range of sizes, and located on an out-of-the-way street known for its wealth of discounters.
flea market face-off
One city, two great markets. Located on the northern fringe of Paris, les puces de st.-ouen (at ave. Michelet and rue Jean Henri Fabre l42 ; open Sat. through Mon.) is the most well-known and touristy flea, with pricier items, designated vendors, and better organization. But southern-situated les puces de la porte de Vanves (at ave. Georges Lafenestre and rue Marc Sangnier l43 ; open Sat. and Sun.) is our favorite. It's less edited and grungier-digging for finds under makeshift tarps is the norm-and therefore more rewarding when you land a deal.
One-stop shopping
Franck et Fils
The mellow 16th arrondissement isn't exactly a shopping hot spot, but fancy, renovated mini department store Franck et Fils is poised to change that. It carries an edited collection of lines you'd find at its bigger competitors, but with far fewer tourists to compete with for the goods. The shoe salon is especially notable-Dries Van Noten, Chloé, and Yves Saint Laurent are well represented. 80 rue de Passy (16th arr.), 33-1-44-14-38-00
Galeries Lafayette
Its restructured fashion departments, which now include even more indie labels from around the world, and the hipster basement-level Lafayette VO shop make shopping this mammoth retailer-our favorite in Paris-a wonderfully dizzying experience. Visit early in the day, since the store can get packed beyond comfort, and note that foreign shoppers are entitled to 10 percent off their purchases. Best location: 48 blvd. Haussmann (9th arr.), 33-1-42-82-34-56, galerieslafayette.com
Le Bon Marché
This modern, upscale Left Bank retail giant has a certain poshness that its rivals in town lack. Expect clothing from both heavy hitters and emerging labels-from Azzedine Alaïa to Erotokritos-along with regular fashion-related exhibitions; a recent one explored the history of shoes in cinema. 24 rue de Sèvres (7th arr.), 33-1-44-39-80-00, lebonmarche.fr
Monoprix
We love roaming the aisles at this supermarket/drugstore/discounter to see what foreign-to-our-eyes treasures we'll come across: milky Evian lip balm, unusually printed hosiery, or a version of Special K cereal that involves chocolate shavings (if the French can sneak chocolate into something, they will). Best location: 21 ave. de l'Opéra (1st arr.), 33-1-42-61-78-08
Printemps
Exclusives aplenty are a major motivation for visiting Printemps this season: An impressive roster of big-name designers have just created T-shirts for this legendary department store, including Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, and Paul & Joe. As with Galeries Lafayette, foreign shoppers get a 10 percent discount. 64 blvd. Haussmann (9th arr.), 33-1-42-82-50-00, printemps.com
La Samaritaine
The least-known of Paris' four big department stores, Samaritaine is also one of its most impressive. Its six levels are a sight to behold, from its open, airy young-designer section, to the amazing Kiliwatch vintage area, which boasts some of the most covetable secondhand pieces and fairest prices in town. 19 rue de la Monnaie (1st arr.), 33-1-40-41-20-20, lasamaritaine.com
Something's up in the 10th
The artsy 10th arrondissement is drawing an increasing number of eclectic boutiques. Take an afternoon to visit our favorites.
Stella Cadente's (93 quai de Valmy, 33-1-42-09-27-00, stella-cadente.com) cheeky designs, like her pop-arty star-print chiffon dresses, have made her a neighborhood standout; equally beloved is OBA (83 quai de Valmy, 33-1-42-40-39-91, obamercadogeneral.com), rife with affordable made-in-Brazil giftables. Nearby Ginger Lyly (33 rue Beaurepaire, 33-1-42-06-07-73) has generated buzz with its spunky mix of one-offs by local designers, and 770 (29 rue Beaurepaire, 33-1-42-02-07-88) drew us in with its pink floorboards and reworked vintage pieces. Then there's the store that started it all: Antoine & lili (95 quai de Valmy, 33-1-40-37-41-55, antoineetlili.com) was the only game when it opened years back along the picturesque Canal St. Martin; it still wows us with its offbeat decor and funky imports.
Editor's pick
La Charlotte de l'Îsle
24 rue St. Louis en l'Îsle (4th arr.), 33-1-43-54-25-83, la-charlotte.fr "Known for its superrich hot chocolate, this tiny, kitschy café also has a small-but-amazing selection of handmade sweets. I always get its buttery truffles to go."—Jen Ford, Fashion News Editor
Carry one home
Four handbag lines to keep your eye on
Best known for its flat canvas satchels with fluorescent trim, the current collection from Louison (20 rue St. Nicholas [12th arr.], 33-1-43-44-02-62 163) features metallic-leather pouches and glitter-speckled totes-all by a former Hogan designer. Abaco (best location: 68 blvd. de Sebastopol [3rd arr.], 33-1-48-87-86-86 l64) is building quite a following with its slouchy pigment-dyed leather bags, which are the epitome of understated bohemian luxury. Many a Parisian woman owns at least one streamlined nylon purse by Karine Dupont (best location: 4 rue du Marché St. Honoré [1st arr.], 33-1-40-27-82-82 165, karinedupont.com); her shoulder bags composed of multiple layered pouches-each one a different color-are swift sellers. And word is fast spreading of Brontibay (6 rue de Sévigné [4th arr.], 33-1-42-76-90-80, brontibay.fr) and its vibrant, unstructured totes with contrasting leather handles.
Editor's pick
Shakespeare & Co.
37 rue de la Bucherie (5th arr.), 33-1-43-25-40-93 "It may seem odd to shop at an English bookstore in paris, but you just don't find history-laden spots like this back home: it's charmingly cluttered, musty, and eccentric, open till the wee hours, and the off-beat staff is beyond imangineable."—Elise Loehnen, Regional Editor
Originally published in Lucky magazine's June 2005 issue. Information may have changed since publication.
Saturday, February 3, 2007
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